Lint and Product Buildup

Welcome back to my blog, Locs Talk, where I talk about all things Locs and Loose-Natural Hair. This week we are going to get into build up! Lint and product buildup is probably one of, if not the most common problems that occurs when you have Locs. For many, the research starts with this question: "how do I remove this lint or buildup from my Locs?" Don't get me wrong, it's a good question and I am pleased that there is any research going on at all; but I'd like to take things further back and start at the beginning asking this question instead: "how do I avoid product and lint buildup in my Locs?" Learning ahead before it begins, is how we learn to be proactive and avoid it from happening to begin with. Let's talk about what causes product buildup and lint, what it looks like when not dealt with and treated, and some proactive ways to avoid it as much as possible. The information and tips provided in this blog is researchable, it can and will help you to have a wonderful, drama free Loc journey.

I would like to start by analyzing what a Loc looks like with buildup. Let's take a look at this beautiful thick Loc in the images here. Notice how I said Loc (singular), instead of Locs (plural); this is an image of one Loc. Yes, both images are the same Loc, the one on the left is the Loc as a whole and the one on the right is the same Loc cut & split open. I know what you must be thinking right now, and you're right, that inside looks pretty janky doesn't it? Believe it or not, if you see Loc buildup on the outer surface of your Loc, then chances are, your problem is much deeper than you think. Who knew, your Loc can look that healthy and clean on the outside but have all THAT happening on the inside? Let's discuss it and get into what could have caused this kind of buildup to happen and talk further about how we can avoid it from happening to begin with.

Let's look again at the question I asked: "who knew that a loc that looked that healthy and clean on the outside, could have all of THAT going on inside?" Now, I'm guessing you're wondering, well if I can't see it on the surface, then how am I supposed to know if I have buildup? GREAT question to ask! Let's get into what I like to call the squeeze test. The squeeze test is pretty simple to do. I recommend doing the squeeze test on at least 3 Locs, one in the front, middle and back. Using your thumb and index fingers, take your loc give it a squeeze, it should feel sort of squishy like a sponge and have a bit of a bounce back after you squeeze it, then there likely isn't any buildup inside the Loc. If it is really hard, doesn't squish or bounce back, chances are, there is some buildup you can't see that is embedded in your Loc. You can also test it by squeezing your Loc gently and rolling it Loc back n forth between you thumb and index fingers at the joint, you should feel the bounce back as you roll it back n forth. If there is no bounce back, or it hurts at the joint, you may be due for a deep cleanse detox.

Common Causes of Buildup

Products:

Using products without knowing what the ingredients are, or, if the density is safe to use on your Locs, this can cause major problems. You have to be extremely careful about the products you choose to use on your Locs. Some choose to use hair products that are specifically formulated for Loose-Natural hair; products such as leave in conditioner and hair pudding, just to name a couple. While these products are great for Loose-Natural hair, remember what I have spoken about before, Loc care and Loose-Natural hair care are two separate avenues and should be viewed as such. Loose-Natural hair products are heavy in density and can easily build up in Locs, not on, but in. While with Loose-Natural hair, it can be washed off without much effort; Locs are a different story and can result like the image you see above. How, might you ask? Products formulated for Loose-natural hair are given the time they need to burrow down into the loc and find itself a nice place to call home. You'd never even know it was there, because you can't see it on the surface. It's easy to know right away what products are not meant for Locs, because it doesn't say "for Locs" anywhere on the label or in advertisement for the product. If it doesn't say it's for Locs, then it's not meant to be used on your Locs.

The real work goes into researching ingredients in the products that say they are for Locs. Things like wax and honey are common ingredients listed in Loc products. Wax and honey are agents I personally do not use on my Locs because of the thick density and stickiness that become a magnet to fabric, lint, oil and dirt. Wax creates a barrier on the Locs making it hard for moisture to penetrate (which causes dryness beneath the barrier) and can cause buildup of lint oil and dirt (on the surface of the barrier), weighing the Loc down massively. The weight becomes too much tension, and you risk thinning and breakage when this happens. Honey finds its way as it burrows deep within the Locs dragging debris, oil and dirt with it, very quickly, and it stays there.

Because of the curl pattern that develops as your Locs mature, managing to get down into the Loc, to pull out and remove debris that burrows in along with agents like wax and sticky honey, (debris such as lint and dirt); it is tough and nearly impossible to do without causing additional damage to the Locs. Nowadays, many would say, I can just do an ACV detox with baking soda to get it out. While this detox method does work effectively in breaking down product, (when done correctly using the correct formula); it is not my most highly recommended solution. One because most often it is not done properly and because of that, it does a lot more harm than good; and two because of what I said for one in addition to, it is done too often.

What harm you may be wondering? Well, the reaction caused by mixing the ACV with baking soda is, it produces a carbon dioxide gas, which by the way is not harmful because it is in low dosage. There has been more research that the agents alone can be more of a risk of damage to the hair and scalp when it isn't used properly, in high doses or undiluted. As it states in Healthline magazine for example: "the average scalp has a pH level of 5.5 and the hair shaft has a pH level of 3.67". Maintaining this balance helps to keep the hair and scalp healthy. Baking soda has a pH level of 9 which means a small amount is all that is necessary for a properly formulated detox. If it is not properly formulated along with the right combination of balancing ingredients, the pH level of the scalp and hair can be compromised and cause a pH imbalanced. Unfortunately, I have seen footage where entire boxes of baking soda are poured directly onto the Locs and undiluted ACV (which should always be diluted when using on the hair and scalp), is poured right on top of it. Also, the effect of alkaline (baking soda), combined with acidic (ACV) has no proven scientific added benefits, so why risk it. By the way, pouring undiluted ACV directly to the hair and scalp, strip strands and burn the scalp. So, as I said, if it is not formulated and used properly, it's pretty useless or can potentially cause more harm than good.

Another common product that causes buildup is, heavy grease and oils. Essential and light conditioning oils are great for Locs; however, heavy and dense oil can cause massive buildup. Heavy and dense oils also clog the pores in the scalp, stunting hair growth and can cause bacterial infection (Folliculitis), and inflamed scalp. More so, due to over usage as opposed to using the wrong type of oil. When using essential and light conditioning oils for your Locs, a little bit goes a long way. It is also important to understand that Oil should not be used as a solo agent to moisturize, oil does not equate to moisture, it is a sealant for moisture. So, moisture first followed by oil to seal it.

2. Lint: Oooooh that stubborn lint, that annoying lint! Lint can be a pain in the butt for Locs! While naturally Locs attract lint, it is even worse when the lint is attracted by the products (I mentioned earlier), being on or in your Locs too. Not only is the lint attaching to the Loc, but to the product as well, which is then pulling the lint down when the product burrows deep into the Loc. Many have heard me refer to these products as lint magnets, so you know I am mainly focused on Honey and Wax.

Now lint that's still on the surface of Locs is pretty easy to remove, because it's just on the surface. That's where Loc brushing comes most in handy. It is great for lint removable from the surface (using a soft boar's hair brush). If your Locs are super frizzy and the bristles of the brush can't reach it (most common with starter Locs), needle tipped tweezers are excellent to use to avoid pulling frizz and untwining the Loc . It is important to be proactive from day one to avoid lint buildup.

Proactive Actions of Avoiding Buildup

Now that we have discussed what likely is the two most common causes of buildup on/in Locs, let's get into how we can be proactive in avoiding buildup from happening. Repeated from the causes, under the products section, if it doesn't say "for Locs" on the label, then do not use it for your Locs. Products formulated for Loose-Natural hair are not all formulated for Locs. The products I use, Peculiar Roots, those products are formulated specifically for Locs, but can be used for loose-natural hair, equally. As I shared previously on Locs Talk, it took 5 years of research during my Loc journey to find Peculiar Roots. Reminder from last week's vlog, do not overuse Loc products on your Locs, even the best of them. Just because it is formulated for Locs does not mean you have to be heavy handed slathering it on thick. Long term use of wax and honey products on Locs, should be avoided, for obvious reasons as stated in the previous section.

This one I cannot say enough, wash your Locs regularly, at least once every 2-3 weeks.

The holy grail product for washing out product is a great clarifying shampoo, which helps avoid product buildup and break down prior product buildup; I highly recommend Peculiar Roots ACV shampoo. It does not contain, the harshness that baking soda has on your hair, but it does the job of cleansing the product out of your Locs, leaving them light, fresh and clean. What's even greater, it smells amazing, like crisp apples and not funky like vinegar. Reminder, every wash does not require a retwist. If you need to clean it up for neatness, see my previous blog demo on frontal retwist you can do yourself (note for Vlog to post in the end card).

For lint avoidance, this is a tough one, but it can be done. When sleeping, covering your Locs can keep lint from the bedding and pillowcase off your Locs, but also has the benefit of keeping in moisture while you sleep. I suggest a satin scarf or a satin lined bonnet. Sleeping on satin pillowcases helps too but aren't as effective as covering your Locs to avoid lint because there is still the matter of the rest of your bedding as well as your sleeping attire. Brush your Locs regularly to remove lint particles from the surface of your Locs, brushing also softens and polishes the Locs. When you're dressing (especially putting on overhead cotton shirts, sweaters and hoodies), keep your Locs covered with a bonnet or scarf to avoid lint transfer.

What to do if buildup is embedded in the Locs as seen in the picture illustrated. An ACV detox is effective (when properly done and formulated with the right formula), but I don't recommend more than once in a years' time, in order to avoid a pH imbalance and other potential damage, which was discussed earlier. You can, however, do a gentle monthly detox soak to remove buildup. The Vegan detox bar from Peculiar Roots is perfect, because it has the perfect balance of ingredients needed to properly detox your Locs without causing further harm to your Locs and scalp. Be mindful, no matter how often you detox, detoxes do not remove fabric from the Locs. Once fabric, aka lint is inside the Loc, it's pretty stuck in there. This is why it is important to be as proactive as possible in avoiding lint as much as possible. I have seen and read that some people have used harsh items like permanent markers to cover the lint. I strongly advise against using permanent markers because they contain xylene, a chemical capable of causing damage to the respiratory, central nervous, cardiovascular, and renal systems. A vegan color rinse has been the most effective and least harmful way to cover up embedded lint. There are Locticitans out there who specialize in Loc restoration which includes cutting off the loc to remove debris and then reattaching them. It will cost and I mean big $$$, so, if you know you can't afford the big $$$ of restoring your Locs, be proactive in avoiding the problems ahead of time.

If you have additional questions on this topic, please do not hesitate to post them in the comment section below. I will be certain to answer any additional questions you may have in a timely manner. I the meantime, take care of your crowns and have wonderful Loc journey!

Products mentioned in today's blog to help avoid and detox cleanse buildup, are available to you at @ peculiarroots.com use the discount code Pammielocs10 at checkout to save $$$

Loc Brush

Loc Brush Kit

Vegan Detox Bar

Loc Detox Kit

ACV Clarifying shampoo

Black Charcoal detox shampoo

Have a healthy Loc Journey

Pammie