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Starting Locs and How to Maintain

Updated: May 24, 2022

Hello and welcome back to Locs talk, where I talk about all things Locs and Loose-Natural Hair. This week the discussion is primarily about Locs but it's a transitional passageway from loose-natural to Locs. I am going to talk about the different ways to start Locs, different types of Locs and the different ways to maintain them. So, let's jump right in and begin with the different methods of starting Locs. I started my Locs just over 7 years ago and I did some research to figure out how I should go about it. I attempted 3 ways to try before I found a way that would stay in place. Back then, there were 4 primary ways to start Locs and I tried 3 of the 4; there were the traditional comb coils, braids, and two strand twist and the sponge. Since then, a fifth method has developed, the instant or insta-loc.


It is very important to prepare yourself and do the research before you get started, it doesn't matter if you are doing it yourself or if you find a Loctician to do them for you. I wrote a blog helping you to do just that. It is more crucial if you are going to do it yourself, to research as much as possible. If you choose to have a Loctician, do your research and if it is not required from your Loctician, request a consultation to be sure you're a right fit for each other. Your connection to your Loctician is important for your Loc journey. Also, you should never start your Locs without a thorough wash (no conditioner), just a good clarifying wash to be sure you don't start your journey with any product buildup on your hair. So, let's begin by talking about starter Loc methods and types of Locs.


Starter Loc Methods &Types of Locs


Before I get into the different types of Locs there are, I want to give a bit more details on the 4 methods of starting your Locs.


1. Comb Coils: the most traditional way to start Locs. Coils require the most maintenance, retwisting every 2-4 weeks depending on your hair type, until your Locs reach the budding stage. Then you can get a retwist every 4-6 weeks until you are fully Loc'd. The reason why this is the highest level of maintenance is because coils pose the highest risk of unraveling in the earlier stages of your Loc journey and often requires being retwisted several times due to softer hair texture, and in some cases length. This generally happens the most at the nape of the head (back of the neck), and the crown (top of your head), which are generally the softest and most sensitive areas of your head.


2. Two-strand Twist: this method has become one of the most popular ways to start Locs, especially for those starting with excessive length as well those who require a higher level of neatness and lower level of frizz. Maintaining retwist can occur every 4-6 weeks in the early stages.


3. Braids: are another method, once the most popular method, but isn't as popular these days as it once was back in the day. Most Locs started with braids don't get their first retwist until at least 3-6 months into their journey. They simply maintain it with washing and keeping the frizz minimized. Some may require a retwist sooner, depending on the speed of new growth. I personally like to use braids when starting Locs on young children, because with them being so active, it is the easiest to maintain and keep intact, as their Locs develop.


4. Loc sponge brush or Twist Comb: These two items are used to create sections and twist Locs simultaneously throughout the hair. This is not a very common way to start Locs, for most people use them for a Locs like style to wear with short hair cuts for a more ethnic look to styling the hair. I started my middle son's Locs with the sponge brush.


5. Finally, there are the instant or Insta-Locs. This is a more skilled level of starting Locs which a trained loctician should do. Instant Locs skip through all the stages you'd normally go through to reach fully Loc'd Locs. Instant Locs require the use of crochet needle hooks to achieve them. Extensions are often added to give the Locs an even more neat and matured look to your Locs. (Be warned, the experience of the journey will not be included with this method, you are skipping through most of it).


So, now that you have a better understanding of the different types of Starters Locs, let's get into the different types of Locs.


  1. Traditional Locs: Traditional Locs are Locs that are started with any of the five methods mentioned above and the primary way to maintain them is with a palm roll or comb coil retwist. However, there are other ways to maintain them as well (I will discuss that a little later on.)

  2. Micro Locs: Micro Locs are a blend of traditional Locs and Sister Locs. They are started and maintained in the same manner of traditional Locs; however, the size is very small and resemble Sister Locs because of its mini sized parts. Generally spoken Micro Locs are a much smaller version of traditional Locs.

  3. Sister Locs: Just to be clear, Sister Locs and Micro Locs are often mistaken as being the same, but they are not. Sister Locs requires a trained and certified specialist to install them. Sister Locs is installed a specific way, using a special tool designed specifically for sister Locs and is also maintained in one way, using that special tool. It is not only the method of installation and maintenance that makes them sister Locs, but also sectioned with extreme symmetrical size and shape, specified grid patterns, that's what makes them so unique.

  4. Freeform Locs: Freeform Locs are Locs that form naturally without any manipulation to the new growth as it grows out. So, you generally start your Locs the traditional way and simply remove the retwist from the equation of maintenance. A prime example of what freeform Locs look like are Jay Z's Locs. Just so it is clear, you are required to wash your freeform Locs on a regular basis to avoid dirt and product buildup or any bacterium buildup on the scalp that can lead to potential scalp infection.

  5. Semi-free form Locs: Semi-free form Locs blends traditional Locs with the art of free forming Locs, allowing the Locs to form organically but maintained by keeping a parting system and a very light palm roll to help maintain each Loc size and shape individually.

  6. Wick Locs: Wick Locs are extremely thick Locs that are created by sectioning your afro into equally large sections and using a crochet needle hook to combine and shape each section into a thick loc (this method is called wicking). You may also take previously Loc'd hair and combine Locs together to create wick Locs, which is the way this method was first introduced in South Florida and soon became quite popular. Other ways wick Locs have been created is by removing Locs, detoxing them and wicking them together, then sectioning new growth, wicking the new growth together, and finally reattaching the wicked Locs as extensions to the newly grown hair. This requires a skilled hand and a lot of patience; it takes a long time to complete this process.

Maintaining Locs

There are a number of ways to maintain your Locs as it grows. I will discuss the 3 most popular ways to maintain your Locs as they grow. First and foremost, the term retwist does not refer only to twisting, it has simply become the most common term to use for Loc maintenance and freshening up your Locs. Washing your Locs on a regular basis every 2-4 weeks at a time (or less if necessary) is very necessary for maintenance. This is to reduce dirt and product buildup on your scalp and Locs. A moisture routine, in most cases daily, is also necessary for maintenance, to assure your Locs retain moisture and do not become dry, dehydrated and brittle over time. It is important to know your hair porosity in order to know how often or how much moisture will be required for your moisture routine. Using products formulated specifically for Locs, is very important for Loc Maintenance; my favorite brand to use is Peculiar Roots. The 3 most popular methods of retwist as your Locs grow are, Palm Roll or Comb Coil twist, Interlocking, and Crochet/wicking. With the exception of crochet method, your hair should be damp when retwisting occurs. Never work with dry hair.


  1. Palm Roll or Comb Coil Twist: this method is done as the new growth grows out and is twisted to maintain the shape of the Loc as it forms. It is important to twist all your Locs in the same direction. Palm rolling/ comb coil twist does not instantly Loc the hair and may unravel often until the roots matures enough to bond and Loc together. Loc gel or Loc pomade is the most common product used with this method. Other products such as aloe gel and mousse are also used. Holistic Locs are typically twisted with just water, essential oil blends, or a blend of both water and oil. Many often-put protective styles in their Locs to help anchor the twist in place for a longer period of time. This is done with an array of styles, the most popular loc protective style is the two-strand rope twist or braid.

  2. Interlocking Method: Interlocking has become a very popular method of maintaining Locs (Warning, interlocking should not be done on damaged or breaking hair). Interlocking is passing the Loc beneath and through the base of the Loc to close the gap created by new growth between the scalp and the Loc'd hair; it can be done with a latch hook tool or an interlocking tool. This is also the method of how sister Locs are maintained and how interlocking was introduced brought into the mainstream of maintaining traditional Locs. It is important to know that each pass through should be in a different direction than the last; this is to avoid creation of holes in the Loc. There is the 2-point method which alternates in two directions that intersect, typically in the formation of an X. Next there is the 3-point method (right to left, top to bottom, left to right) and reverse back n forth, this creates a flatter and wider shape to the Loc and works best for low density hair. Last, there is the 4-point method (N, S, E, & W) a complete rotation. This method of interlocking is my favorite because it maintains the best shape to me. Interlocking method allows longer periods between retwist appointments and maintains a higher level of neatness without having to use styling to keep Locs in place. Products are not required for interlocking; however, be sure the hair is damp and combed to assure gaps are not left open.

  3. Crochet: Crochet is the least popular method because it is time consuming, expensive and sometimes painful if there is a slip of grip and not done with a skilled hand. This method of maintenance is done with the use of a crochet needle hook. Crochet maintenance requires the least number of visits because the new growth is at a normal growth rate of about half an inch per month. This visit is generally done on a quarterly basis. You are not typically required adding moisture to the hair for this method, but I recommend it to avoid breakage due to occasional snagging.

Parting or Grid Pattern

Parting or grid patterns are important to determine the fullness and styling of your Locs. If you have thin or low-density hair, this step is very important and should not be skipped. Low-density means you have a low number of strands growing per square inch on your scalp. So even if you have a thicker textured hair type, if you have low-density, and your parting pattern is not positioned in a way to create the illusion of fullness from the roots, your scalp will be more exposed giving the appearance of thinning and or hair loss. Some of the best grid patterns for low-density hair is flatter and wider parts. Brick pattern, diamond shape, triangular and my favorite, the scallop shape is the best for low-density hair and gives great coverage to create a fuller illusion to the Locs.


Frizz is a big part of the process and is often the most annoying for those with Locs. So, let's talk briefly about the frizz. Remember the blog about what you should know before you get Locs? Well let's recap the part where I used the analogy of the caterpillar becoming the butterfly and the frizz is what's needed to create the chrysalis aka cocoon. The frizz may be annoying, but it is very necessary for the process and should not be cut off. But there is a solution to keeping it under control. First, there is individually hand wrapping the frizz around the Loc, that's going to take time and patience, but it's doable. It is important to choose a direction of wrapping for all Locs. The most common way to maintain frizz during a retwist is a method called Loc Smithing (seen in a separate blog video here on the sight) Loc smithing uses friction back and forth as the pressure of the friction wraps the loose frizz around the Loc in one direction. Finally, Loc brushing is excellent for maintaining frizz on fully Loc'd Locs, in the adult and mature stages of your Loc journey.


So, I have given you the general information you will need to research, all in one place; this is to aid you in deciding whether or not to go forward on your own, or with a Loctician, where to begin your Loc journey and how to maintain it. If you choose to go with a Loctician, be sure to have a consultation with them before you begin, to assure you are both on the same page as it pertains to YOUR journey. Remember to own your power and make the right choice that's right for yourself. Learn as much as you can about your Loctician; enough for you to build a trusting relationship as you both navigate through your Loc Journey together. This is Soley the purpose of why I require a consultation for ALL new clients, whether they are Loc'd or not. I hope the information I've provided for you today was the information you needed to better understand and to help you to decide what you would like to do. Until next time, have a happy and healthy hair journey.


Pammie



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